In the Cordillera Blanca, you have the opportunity to explore the mountainous countryside and then return to stay in some of the most peaceful towns you're likely to find in South America. We picked out a place called Caraz which is an hour and a half down the road from Huaraz. It really is down the road too. I was surprised to learn that Caraz is almost a kilometer further down in altitude. There was no switchback roads on the journey, just gentle downhill descent that at times you didn't even notice it.
Well actually, the gradient might be gentle but the road is peppered with pot holes, some of which you could lose a truck in! Therefore people who drive on it spend most of the time treating each pot hole like a chicane, swerving from left to right and often playing chicken with oncoming traffic because the tarmac might be in slightly better condition on that side of the road. It makes for a lively journey, especially when you driver tries to overtake a car that is swerving around, oblivious to anything behind.
We arrived in Caraz and Nathan and I went to get some lunch (it's nice to meet someone always as hungry as me) and Sophie and Jo went to scope out the accommodation the town had to offer. They returned some time later having been in just about every hostel going, and were particularly keen on a little place up the road called Alojamiento Caballero so we went and checked in there. It was in keeping with the town's tranquil vibe and it had a balcony overlooking some stunning countryside with a table and four chairs - perfect for a game of cards or two!
Alojamiento Caballero is a bit rough around the edges and had pillows that you imagine only Fred Flintstone could get any sleep on, but it did us just fine, was incredibly cheap, and the owner is a friendly and welcoming ninety-something old man who can't really hear what you're saying, making conversations particularly challenging!
Looking to do some hiking, we had a stroke of luck and managed to get ourselves on a heavily discounted tour. The tourist board was offering trips to Laguna Paron to show people the natural beauty and celebrate the recent triumph achieved by local Peruvians. Apparently the lake was being used as a source for the hydroelectric station downstream and was being drained. The local people weren't having that, and managed to regain ownership so that it can be preserved. Well done them!
Although the tour didn't involve walking, it was nice to be chauffeured around for a change. The weather wasn't great but having not put in the hard graft in getting up there meant that it didn't matter so much that some of the scenery was shrouded in cloud.
The trip took us to see the ruins at Tunshukaiko, a particularly underwhelming site that I wouldn't recommend, and then we finished the half day with lunch at a trout farm. I had the opportunity to scoop out some of the fish myself before it was taken off to be prepared in the kitchen. You can't get much fresher than that!
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