Quilotoa - amazing Ecuador!

We decided to back-track a little and head for Latacunga, which is not far south of Quito. Latacunga is one place from where you can start The Quilotoa loop - a 200km circuit of tiny villages high in the Andean mountains. It was a tough few days but some of the best I've had travelling.

We set off early and took the bus to a small village called Pujili. There isn't much there to see, especially not having timed our visit with a market day, so we hopped on another bus to Zumbahua. Again, there wasn't much there either and it soon became apparent that the circuit is all about the marvellous landscapes rather than the villages themselves. Still, we stopped there for lunch and the "carne" of the day happened to be llama. Very tasty if you have a good cut. I'm not sure what part of the llama I was given but it didn't have any meat on it, but that's the luck of the draw! Sophie kindly donated some of her 'fillet' of llama!

Despite many offers of a lift, (you can tell they wonder why we would choose to walk) we hiked to a village called Quilotoa which is set amongst the clouds and at the edge of a volcanic crater.  It wasn't a particularly challenging hike, but it was made that little bit tougher by the altitude. Oh and the fact that we walked the wrong way for half an hour and had to spend another half an hour getting back to the start!

Quilotoa soon became shrouded in cloud - I'm not sure you can call it fog when it's clearly cloud - and we chose a place to stay. It was probably the most basic of accommodations we have encountered. Yes, I think I'm right in saying that. The jungle retreat in Guatemala had wireless internet. The one in Mexico had a fully functioning restaurant. This place did have electricity and technically it had hot water so I suppose it wasn't the most basic of basics! But it had no running water and no heating. And once the sun went down it got very cold. They had a shower cubicle but no shower. Instead you could order a bowl of hot water to splash yourself with if you dared get undressed in those temperatures.

Not that I'm complaining at all. The family running the guesthouse were so kind and helpful and their hospitality made it the perfect place to stay. Plus, once the fire in the dining room was lit, and the beers were opened we had a lovely evening chatting to two British guys we'd met earlier in the day.

Early the next morning we walked the fifty or so meters up the road to the edge of the crater. The crater lake at Quilotoa is an amazing sight. If you are lucky to have some moving clouds overhead, you can watch as the lake changes shades of green and blue.

We decided to climb down to the lake for a closer look and on the way back up we found out what climbing at altitude is all about! It took an hour but it felt like three. However, once at the top we recovered pretty fast, got some supplies and started the hike to Chugchilan. And we found ourselves a free guide too. A dog that happened to see us leave the mini-store must have decided we needed a little help on the four to six hour journey. He led from the front for over two hours and then disappeared off into the distance. Were we too slow? Did he give up waiting for us to donate a salted biscuit? Who knows.

The hike to Chugchilan, as the notice says at the start, is a hard walk. We walked for an hour around the top of the crater and then descended down towards a tiny village called Huayama. There we bumped into an Estonian guy whom we’d met in Quito. He had just started a five month job teaching children about computers. We saw where he was living and it was pretty grim. It must be quite an experience teaching children who don’t know that Ecuador is in South America let alone where Europe is.

The hike took us towards Chugchilan and we could see it in the distance. The only problem was the huge canyon inbetween! We had to walk all the way down it and then a solid hour climb up the other side. It was a good job there was tremendous views to take our mind off walking.

After about six hours of tough hiking in the day we were in need of somewhere to stay and a shower. Luckily there is a hostel in Chugchilan that has much more than you expect. Not only hot running water, but a Turkish steam bath too! And who should be lying down a few feet from our room? Our four-legged friend!

At the hostel we met a Dutch couple called Ron and Lisa and we happily chatted the night away over some particularly strong Cuba Libres. The Dutch are great. I can’t believe I’ve never been to Holland. It was the perfect way to end a tough day. We even got treated to some dancing by the local children in carnival attire, for a small tip of course!

The next day we took advantage of the steam room to ease some of the aches and pains. Remembering all too well the day before, we sensibly took the bus through the other towns to complete the loop. After all, you don't want to rush things too much at high altitude!

Banos - arguments at sundown

I had promised myself (and Liam) that this blog post would be more positive and upbeat. However, after today that isn't going to happen. We had decided that Banos would redeem itself, in style, in the form of a wonderful day on horseback, climbing mountain roads, stopping to catch beautiful views and visiting one or two waterfalls. And after the fantastic horse-related day in Colombia just a few weeks ago, I had no reservations about getting back in the saddle.

We chose one of the many adventure tour offices in the town centre and at $40 for two for four hours hire, I was fairly happy to go ahead. After all, I'd read that some horses are ill looked after, so going with one of the main companies seemed worth it.

After what ended up being a 45 minute delay, we were taken to the edge of town to pick up the horses. The owners were just finishing up a few running repairs to the horses' shoes and a few moments later we were up and away. Well, not quite.

My only other experience of horse riding involved a horse that really wanted to fly - I'm sure if it had had anything approximating to wings, it would have done! - so I expected some tight rein control might be needed. But not so, with this one. Instead, it hobbled (thats the only word that describes it) down the road, with me trying not to fall off at breathtakingly slow speed! Sophie had mentioned at the start that mine looked pregnant, and I wondered if she may have been right.

Sophie's horse couldn't even muster up a hobble. That was until our guide (a ten year old boy) gave it a few whips and we all experienced ten seconds of awkward trotting, and then back to hobbling.

As we climbed up the mountain road, it was obvious the horses were struggling. And we were only one hour into a four hour journey. At one point my horse turned around and started heading back down the hill and there wasn't much I could do about it!

The whole situation made me very angry. For one, it was unfair to charge $40 and give us either ill or tired horses. And secondly, who likes to spend an afternoon torturing an animal? And this is me, the guy who wasn't keen on horses a few weeks back! Plus, I don't feel that good about shouting at a ten year old boy, so instead we explained why we weren't happy and headed back for town. In a very arrogant way, the boy either didn't understand or chose not to.

Back in town we headed straight for the office and explained the situation. I think that either the horses were in very bad condition, or they had just returned from a morning ride and were exhausted. On arrival at the office we were told that unfortunately the boss was not in and we'd have to come back later. So we did, three times and eventually the boss returned to face our complaint.
(see below: not a happy face)

What followed was basically a big argument. The boss fetched the horse owner and we all talked/shouted it over. Then one of the shop owner's friends explained that even in Europe, if you buy a burger and don't like it, you don't eat it and then complain. How very helpful. A burger analogy. Of course, being an expert on horses I should have known after one glance that they weren't fit for a trip up the mountain!
Eventually they agreed to give half our money back. We should have been given a total refund, but I suppose we did well to get anything. If only we'd hired those noisy quad bikes instead!

Banos - worse than I'd heard

The rain has probably dampened my impression, but Banos really is a bit of a let down. I'm not going to begrudge this part of the world some much needed precipitation, so I'll not moan about the rain itself.

What I will moan about is this town, if I may.  I guess I had high hopes having liked Quito so much, and especially so because you're not even supposed to like Quito. Perhaps I should have read up on this place a little more. And perhaps I have become obsessed by colonial architecture and when there isn't any, start to sulk!

The setting of Banos is quite magnificent though. You can see how it got the name, as the town sits in a basin surrounded by mountains with steep sides. There is even a waterfall cascading down on the northern edge of town like a tap! Or maybe it got it's name from all the thermal springs they have here... However it's a bit of a shame about the town itself. I realise I've been spoilt for lovely little towns set amongst mountains and canyons, but it is hard to get inspired by nasty half built and half painted concrete blocks.

It reminds me of what tourism has done for European holiday destinations such as Ibiza and Kos: nothing pretty. And like us Brits, it seems the Ecuadorians aren't here for the architecture either. No, no, they're here for a jolly good booze-up! Its nice to know we're not the only ones. Yes, it was a lively night last night, and one we'd have been better off joining in.

Banos is a popular weekend destination for those from Quito and surrounding areas. And, aside from partying all night, there are lots of activities you can choose: rafting, canyoning (a new one to me), horse riding, mountain biking. You can even annoy everybody and hire a quad bike! They're very loud. And what could be better than lots of noise?

I have to say that in this part of the world and in Latin America in general, they do like to make a noise. Car horns are the favourite, but in general as long as what you're doing is noisy, you're having a good time! Earlier I almost had my eardrum burst by a guy who walked past and whistled to someone ahead - the kind of whistle that requires a couple of fingers in the mouth. My ear is still ringing now! And they all have the same car alarm, that also doubles up as a horn. It's one that cycles through every car alarm sound you can think of. Highly annoying.

Anyway I'd better stop, before someone comments on my blog that people like me should stay at home! Can you tell I didn't get much sleep last night??

We're going to hire some horses tomorrow. I'm sure that will lighten my mood!

Quito - better than I'd heard

Apart from access to the infamous Galapagos islands, the equator and a million language schools, I hadn't heard many other reasons to be in Quito. Most people say that it is not that nice and you won't want to stay there long. Maybe it isn't a place to stay long term, but having spent a few days here I have found it really enjoyable and have not felt in any desperate need to move on.

For me the best thing about the Quito is the contrast between the new and old cities. The old city has so much wonderful architecture - those Spaniards knew what they were doing - and it seems around every corner there is a surprisingly fantastic view of buildings and streets with steep inclines set with a mountainous background. These colonial buildings really do look good. I've decided I want one!
In this part of the world it is very common for cities to have an historic district but I hadn't expected this one to be so attractive.

Then, when you've had your fill of aesthetically pleasing architecture, pop on the bus over to the new city. It isn't pretty and it is certainly geared up for the 'gringo' with all the bars and restaurants along the Reina Victoria. However, I didn't find it at all unpleasant and what could be wrong with a place that has all-you-can-eat sushi?

We decided it was about time to take some Spanish lessons. After four months of basic transactional speak, I feel desperate to talk about something other than the price of a bus ticket or how I like my steak cooked. Or, whether I want "carne" or "pollo" with my set menu - does anyone know why is chicken not classed as meat here? Beef, pork, lamb or even guinea pig is called meat. Chicken is chicken. Strange.

Anyway, the lessons are a lot of fun. There is an element of picking and choosing what you commit to memory though. Ecuadorians have their own slang and, I learned today, have a penchant for adding an extra few letters onto words. For example "un momento" is "un momentito". And I am called Robertito. Why? Because it is classed as a friendlier way of talking and to make it cute in some way. There are also words that you just won't hear outside of Ecuador. "Change" is "cambio" in most of Latin America, but here they say "sueltos" or "sueltitos", even! But I tried both when trying to break a $20 note and all I got was blank faces! Yeah, I'll stick to "cambio" thanks. It's going to be fun going to Spain after all this!

Finally, this evening we discovered a little area called La Ronda. It is a small street two minutes north of Santo Domingo square and has street music, crafts, art shops and cafes selling mulled wine etc. Another thing to like about Quito. I will go back there and take some photos to share with you.

Otavalo - muchos market

After giving Ibarra some 'airspace' I couldn't possibly miss out a few words on Otavalo. A whole 40 cents each on the bus from Ibarra (transport is so cheap in Ecuador) and we were there and ready to set about finding somewhere to stay. There is plenty of choice and luckily so as the first hostel wanted to charge us $24 a night! We swiftly moved on and found that most places are a more reasonable $12 to $14 for two people.

In Otavalo, the difference between a week night and weekend night is huge. The main feature is the Saturday market which draws people from all around, a good deal probably from Quito. On the Thursday night we had our pick of places to dine, but on Friday the streets were buzzing with Ecuadorians and tourists and the restaurants were packed. Fancying a bit of middle-eastern cuisine, we headed for a restaurant we'd seen the previous day. However tonight it had attracted scores of teenagers who were all busy passing around the hookah water pipes. Not the ideal eating environment, we decided to forget the falafel and try somewhere else.

So, the main attraction is the Saturday market and it was the reason we'd planned to stay for the weekend. I have to say that it was a bit of a let down. Perhaps I'm not the best judge given that I don't love markets in general. However, I'm open to be proved wrong, and look how I felt about horses just a couple weeks ago?

This 'must see' market was certainly big. Most of the central streets were filled out with vendors and, though not finding a new passion, I did enjoy walking around. I actually made a purchase too. In need of some sunglasses, I entered into some polite bargaining, however this particular vendor decided not to be polite and started proceedings at a whopping $18! It was as best I could do to get him down to a more reasonable $6, but even that was slightly over the odds.

So, the market is a little too tourist influenced and the modern buildings scattered about the town are not all that attractive - they've gone for a lot of mirrored glass in a garish 80's style - but Otavalo has an interesting ethnic mix and a lot of history as a trading town. There are many indigenous people, the women wearing the traditional white patterned blouses and the men pony tails and hats. All the people were genuinely friendly too.

And there is an awful lot to keep you occupied on the activity front. We chose a hike around the crater late of Laguna de Cuicocha. The sun was intense and the climbs steep and long at times, but the 5 hour walk was worth it for the fabulous views. Looking at the photos now, there is something that looks almost superimposed or 'photoshopped' about them. But from some angles it really was almost too perfect!

Ibarra - first stop in Ecuador

We broke our Quito-bound journey up a bit by first stopping at Ibarra. The place is famous for its ice cream, but somehow we managed to miss out on trying some. We were looking out for the few ice cream shops with a large copper bowl in the window - apparently the sign of good quality according to some locals - and happened apon a nice cafe by the main square, where we indulged in English tea and cake. Upholding the stereotype in style! Incidentally, the main square is a free wifi zone. Just remember to take some shades along with your laptop to avoid giving yourself permenant crows feet!

Ibarra is not a place that you care to stay long. We spent a day walking around and thats all you need. It's all very pleasant though. The square has the obligatory statue to which pigeons have done their best to decorate - the indignity of it - and of course you can always find some old men playing cards.

We got our bearings and started to plan what to see around the northern highlands- there is almost too much choice and seemingly no end of medicinal hot springs to choose from. Life's tough in Ecuador!

Unsure of which direction to head in, we decided to think about it over dinner and chose El Argentino in the Plazoleta Francisco Calderon. It was a master stroke. So much so, we went back there on the second night! The meat platter was delicious, large and only cost $12. It broke our traditional $1.50 almuerzos set menu, but it was worth it!

Be careful how long you stay out though. By ten o'clock most places have shut for the night and that includes hostels. Luckily, a couple of knocks on the door and our good Señora let us in!