In Creel there is a great little place called The 3 Amigos and from there you can book all sorts of tours in order to experience the best of this vast canyon area. We hired mountain bikes (only £15 for 2, bargain) and headed for The Recowata Hot Springs, a 22Km ride.
Before we headed out, one of the amigos explained that the first few kilometres would be uphill, then flat road and then a left turn would take us on a flat off-road track. And also, once we got near the springs, there would be 3 kilometres of downhill on a stone path. Oh, and our helpful guidebook said that you will need some degree of physical fitness. No problem.
We made good progress. The first 15 kilometres flew by. The uphill at the start was challenging but it was morning so we were fresh. Then we started to head downhill on the track. Good, I thought. Not long until some hot spring action. Then the stone path started, huge stones of all shapes and sizes, set in concrete. It was probably the most uncomfortable path I’ve ever cycled on, even on a mountain bike with front suspension.
We continued down, and down and down. We must be almost there, I thought. Then the stone path started to get very steep and zig zag back and forth. We were going down the side of the canyon. I don´t know how far down perhaps a kilometer in altitude? No one said anything about this. These canyons are deep. We must have done three kilometres by now. No, the path went on and on. Some parts too steep to ride. Then, the bumpy stone hill got the better of me. Constantly on the brakes, my hands slipped forward off the handle bar and the rest of me followed. I broke the fall with my elbow and shoulder. The bike went sailing over my head. Ouch doesn’t cover it. But after a moment I realised I was very lucky. No broken bones and the bike still worked.
A short hobble and we’d reached the hot springs. Huge volumes of warm water pouring down the side of the canyon had been captured by a number of differently sized swimming pools. The water cascaded from one to the other and then eventually joining the river below. This is a seriously relaxing place to be. Sun shining, warm water to bathe in, and beautiful views. Perfect. Healing, even. And I needed healing!
After lunch and a good chat with some Mexican tourists, we decided we’d better try and make it back by the 18.30 deadline. However difficult it was coming down, going back up wasn’t going to be amusing. We couldn’t cycle it, so we pushed the bikes up the steep canyon. Almost a full two hours later we got to some flat ground. Only the small matter of 15 kilometres left. I don’t know how, but we made it back to Creel on time. I straightened out various parts of the bike from the crash, hid my left arm and we handed the bikes in.
We were exhausted. I’d said that I wanted some exercise and I got it. The springs are a wonderful place to go. On bikes? I’d say you need more than “some degree of physical fitness”!
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