San Cristobal Delight

Another overnight bus took us away from Oaxaca, up and down the winding roads towards San Cristobal de las Casas – and boy were they winding roads. Hairpin followed by hairpin. After the first couple of hours even the most cast iron of stomachs would have been gurgling!

The bus was almost empty so we had room to spread out and try get a bit of shut eye. It wasn’t going to happen. Once the roads opened up, the driver put his foot down, either to make up time or just for the fun of it, and I couldn’t get my head to stay still for more than 20 seconds.

That was the worst of it though. We arrived at the bus station and were greeted by a young chap who had the answer to all our needs. At first I thought I’d have to dodge an attempt to steal the white man's dollars, but instead Jonathan opened up a brochure of a new hostel in town. Free taxi there, 24 hot water, breakfast, wireless, private bathroom, all for less than we’ve paid anywhere else so far. It was delightful. No need to run around town looking for cheap and clean accommodation, on the back of a night without sleep. This was a low season/new hostel discount. We’ll have that thank you very much! They even have free salsa dancing lessons if you want!

And, from then on the day just got better. There are actually people here willing to talk to you and discuss their travels. Crazy notion, hey?!

San Cristobal is a little like Oaxaca, and a little like Patzcuaro. Mountains surround the city, which makes all the street views so impressive. Its very much more geared up for tourism, and we have already booked ourselves a trip on a boat down a nearby canyon. There are plenty of reasonably priced restaurants and everything seems so chilled out and easy here. While sometimes it's nice being away from tourists, here we welcome not having to work hard for what we want. Plus, white faces aren’t a novelty. Although we had difficulty shaking off a couple of 10 year old (?) Mexican girls selling small ornaments! "No, thank you" wouldn’t cut it. So I had to try out some newly learned sentences. "I don’t need it and I don’t want it, thank you", I said. Still didn’t work. We left the restaurant and walked down the street and they eventually gave up. It takes a lot of will power not to cave and just give them five pesos. They’re very cute kids they send round here!

We met a Kiwi on the way round the Indigenous Medicine Museum (I know Sophie will have plenty to say about that place) and have arranged to meet her for a drink later along with a French guy from her hostel, who looks like John Lennon.

This place is wonderful!

ps. I forgot, we also had a boat trip down the Sumidero Canyon. I hope I don't become indifferent to amazing views!